There is a widespread idea that mountains in winter mean one thing, and that thing is skiing. On the Alpe Cimbra it is not quite like that: there is skiing, of course, but the best part happens at much lower speed.
Lake Lavarone freezes in winter. The forest around it goes quiet under the snow. And the days get short in a way that, instead of taking time away, seems to hand some back.
Snowshoes
The most honest way to be here in winter. With snowshoes on, the paths you walk in half an hour in summer take an hour and a half, and that is not a problem: that is the point. You walk in silence, you hear nothing but compressed snow, and every so often you stop because the wood, in that moment, is entirely yours. It takes patience rather than training.
Skiing, if you want it
The Alpe Cimbra Ski Area is close at hand: family runs, ski schools, and skiing without the queues you get elsewhere. It is a resort scaled for people who want a day on skis without turning it into a logistical operation.
The frozen lake
When the cold holds, the lake covers over and becomes a white surface in the middle of the forest. It is worth the trip on its own. One serious point: do not walk on the ice except where it is expressly permitted and checked. The ice on an alpine lake is not uniform, and you cannot tell by looking.
The evening
Winter here has an advantage summer does not: it is dark by five, which turns the evening into a real part of the day rather than an afterthought. Braziers, blankets, something hot, and the black lake outside the window. The rest of that idea is in sleeping on Lake Lavarone.
Staying here. Bazzario sits on the shore of Lake Lavarone: you wake up, open the window, and the lake is already there. Eight rooms, all different, none of them looking like a hotel room.
Getting organised
Snowshoes can be hired locally, so you do not need to arrive equipped. What you do need is waterproof boots, real gloves and the usual business with layers. And the days are short: leave early, get back before dark.
Frequently asked questions
What can you do on the Alpe Cimbra in winter?
Snowshoe walks in the woods around Lake Lavarone, skiing in the Alpe Cimbra Ski Area, walks in the snow and evenings indoors. When the cold holds, the lake freezes over completely.
Does Lake Lavarone freeze in winter?
Yes, when the cold holds for long enough the lake covers over with ice. You should not walk on the surface except where it is expressly permitted and checked: the thickness of the ice is not uniform and cannot be judged by eye.
Do you need to be fit for snowshoeing?
No. Walking on snowshoes takes more time than training: a path that takes half an hour in summer takes around three times as long. You need waterproof boots and layers.
Can you hire snowshoes locally?
Yes, snowshoes can be hired on the Alpe Cimbra: there is no need to arrive with your own equipment.
